Bikes and bananas, captured together in this $9.95 t-shirt I saw at a Jamba Juice in NYC. (I know, WEAK post. I’m on vacation.)

Australian banana researcher James Dale. Image: QUT
Cavendish is our supermarket banana – the one that’s under threat from the newly-remerged Panama Disease (see here for more info.) The Cavendish banana is absolutely seedless and sterile, so it cannot be bred conventionally; the only sway to ensure its future as a commercial fruit would be through genetic engineering (the alternative would be to allow the Cavendish to die out and replace it with a different – and as yet unidentified – banana variety.) Now, according to a news report from the Australia Broadcasting Company, a project spearheaded by Australian scientist James Dale, who runs the Queensland University of Technology’s Centre for Tropical Crops and Biocommodities, has begun the field test of such fruit – the first time lab-modified Cavendish have ever been put to large-scale outdoor trial. The test, the story says, will be “to improve the nutrient content and disease resistance of Cavendish bananas.”
Australia is in desperate banana straits right now, having lost much of its crop to poor weather and a subsequent Panama Disease attack. The field tests are partially being funded by a grant from Microsoft founder Bill Gates. (Dale, by the way, prefers to use the term “biofortification” to describe genetically engineered fruit – one of a long list of proposed terms for such processes, including “genetically modified,” “transgenic,” “GM,” “GMO,” and others. The desire to come up with a less-scary name for lab-developed foods is understandable, but misguided. The real problem is that people have been misled into thinking that all genetic modification of foods is terrifying. The responsibility for this comes partially from big agricultural companies who have behaved terribly when they have introduced modified products – but also from consumer groups who oppose all forms of genetic modification while failing to understand even the basics of the science behind it. )
Comment: The Australia trials will likely horrify some folks – possibly because earlier tests of genetic bananas weren’t focused on supermarket fruit, and this brings the prospect of a so-called “Frankenbanana” closer to home. But genetic engineering isn’t an absolutely scary prospect, and this kind of work is needed with bananas, both because they’re a vital subsistence food, and because they’re such a weak organism. And the Cavendish is a very safe banana to experiment on: with no seeds or pollen, there is zero – absolutely zero – chance of it the kind of cross-crop contamination occurring that we’ve seen with engineered corn. Bananas need a lot of help to survive – and the lab is one of the places that help is going to come from. Not that the Down Under effort is entirely altruistic, I’m sure: if a Panama Disease-resistant banana can be built by Dale and his team, they’ll also have built a gold mine.

Chiquita-owned banana boat, c. 1932
Newsweek’s July 12th issue reported that a boatload of Ecuadorian fruit intercepted by Italian authorities two years ago was part of a larger smuggling ring that realized money was to be made in black-market fruit on the continent, and not – as was originally thought – a one-off incident (perhaps a botched cocaine smuggling operation, where somebody forgot to stuff the fruit full of the drug.) An investigation completed this week reported on the business:
“The trade is big enough now that the Italian authorities are becoming concerned about lost revenue. When officials completed a two-year probe into illicit fruit smuggling this week, they found the trade represented losses of more $80 million in customs fees and more than $2 million in unpaid sales tax on bananas alone.”
The reason? Bananas are highly taxed in Europe, the result of trade laws that favor fruit grown in former colonies, mostly in Africa and the Caribbean. So fruit from Ecuador – the world’s largest banana exporter – comes under restrictive levies. U.S. based-banana companies have been fighting over the taxes for years, but the issue rages on. Chiquita recently adopted an “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em” strategy by announcing it would open new plantations in Africa.
For consumers, the smuggled bananas turned out to be a good deal. investigators helped uncover the extent of the plot by visiting grocers and noticing extraordinarily low prices for the fruit. “We kept wondering how they [the markets] can be selling these Ecuadorean bananas so cheap,” one said. No longer, he added: “That certainly won’t be the case now.”
More on banana trade wars here.
More on Chiquita in Africa here.

Count Lasher: Jamaican recording star and banana lover, “lover” being the operative word. Image: MentoMusic.com
Background: The banana we eat today is a variety called the “Cavendish.” But it isn’t the breed your grandparents ate. That fruit was known as the “Gros Michel,” and it was – by all reports – a bigger, hardier, and better tasting fruit than the one we now consume. But the Gros Michel was susceptible to a disease that wiped it out as a commercial crop by the 1960s. The Cavendish was only adopted because it resisted that disease. Today, a new form of the disease is back, and this time, the Cavendish is the banana getting sick. There’s no cure in sight. But did everyone prefer the taste of the Gros Michel? Apparently not…
There are tons of banana songs – the Chiquita jingle and Day-O (actually called “The Banana Boat Song”) are among the best known – but my current favorite has to be “Robusta Banana,” a song recorded in the 1950s by a Jamaican singer named Count Lasher. Here’s just one verse of the song, which mentions several banana breeds:
“Gros Michelle” she said, “is not too bad” – People like it when it is cooked with shad – But I don’t eat shad. I eat fresh fish – So I’ve got to have Robusta in my dish”
I was made aware of the tune by Mike Garnice, an expert on Jamaican Mento, a musical precursor tp the ska and reggae most of us are familiar with. Mike read my book, and became a banana enthusiast: “I am now the foremost banana expert where I work, and always have an eye out for non-Cavendish varieties. I’m writing you to make you aware of a c.1956 Jamaican song about bananas. It’s by Count Lasher, Jamaica’s greatest mento star. I think you’ll get a kick out of the lyrics. My next trip to Jamaica will have to include a Robusta!”

Image: MentoMusic.com
I had to let Mike know that Robusta is a form of Cavendish, and the reason it probably was preferred was because it was fresh! As noted in my recent post about Coquimba, the banana company that’s trying to bring just-from-the-tree Cavendish to local markets in the U.S., a fresher banana tastes far better than one that’s been shipped and stored and refrigerated and gassed (in order to delay ripening) on the way to supermarkets, as the bananas we buy are.
Jamaica was where the very first supermarket bananas (of the Gros Michel variety) imported to the U.S. originated, back in 1879 – they were imported to New Jersey by a sea captain named Lorenzo Dow Baker. He went into partnership with a New England entrepreneur named Andrew Preston, and the company they founded – Boston Fruit – is known today as Chiquita.
Mike sent me a link to his website, which is all about Mento, and includes the very suggestive Lasher lyrics, which mention several banana types. There’s also a clip from the song.
Thanks, Mike!

Is this cyclist named after the famous banana? (Photo from the Telegraph UK)
British cyclist Mark Cavendish won the fifth stage of the Tour de France. I’ve gotten several notes (including one from my dad) wondering whether he’s related to the Cavendish family from whose name the world’s most popular banana variety was derived. I’ve checked around, and the answer is that I don’t know. If you do, post a comment below.
In the meantime:
Here’s an article in Bicycling magazine that explains why the banana is “cycling’s perfect food.”
Here’s a previous entry on the Cavendish family connection to bananas.
Here’s a link to an outdated book I wrote about the Tour de France.
Cavendish’s personal website is here; his Wikipedia entry is here.